How to remove a single tile
Isolate and extract a single damaged tile cleanly using grout removal, relief drilling, and inward chiseling without cracking adjacent tiles.
This guide shows how to remove a single tile in 30-45 minutes. Start with protect adjacent tiles with heavy tape; follow the safety notes and step checkpoints below.
Visual step map
See the full sequence before you start, then check off each step as you go.
0 of 6 steps checked
Materials and cost planner
Select the items you plan to buy, adjust any estimated price, and calculate the selected total.
Editable rough U.S. retail estimates. Estimated all listed: $231.00. Prices are planning estimates, not quotes — tax, store, brand, size and quantity will change them.
Time and finish planner
Estimate active working time from the number of steps in this guide.
Paint coverage calculator
Estimate how much paint to buy from the area you plan to cover, the number of coats and the coverage shown on the can.
Use the coverage printed on the actual product label. Rough, porous or heavily patched surfaces can use much more paint.
- Read the tools, materials, safety notes, and steps below for free.
- Tap See 20-second demo if you want to understand it first.
- Tap Start Camera Coach when you want hands-free help, or Voice-only if you do not want to use the camera.
- Allow camera and microphone. Point your phone at the work; the coach watches your progress and tells you the next step.
🧰 Required Tools & Equipment
- ✓ Safety glasses
- ✓ Heavy work gloves
- ✓ Grout rake or rotary tool with carbide bit
- ✓ Cordless drill with 1/4-inch masonry or glass/tile bit
- ✓ Narrow cold chisel
- ✓ Hammer
- ✓ Shop vacuum
📦 Materials & Supplies
- ✓ Heavy-duty painter's tape or duct tape
- ✓ Drop cloth
⚠️ Safety Checkpoints & Warnings
- • Always wear impact-resistant safety glasses; fractured ceramic shards eject violently and are razor-sharp.
- • Wear heavy work gloves to prevent lacerations from porcelain and ceramic edges during cleanup.
- • Wear an N95 dust mask to protect against airborne crystalline silica dust generated by drilling and chipping.
📋 Step-by-Step Guide (6 Steps)
Protect adjacent tiles with heavy tape
Apply two overlapping layers of heavy-duty painter's tape or duct tape directly along the edges of all four neighboring tiles. Ensure the tape covers right up to the grout joint without overlapping onto the target tile.
- • A double-layered border of tape framing the perimeter of the target tile.
- • Grout lines surrounding the target tile are fully exposed while neighbor surfaces are covered.
- • Applying only a single layer of thin tape that tears when hit by a tool.
- • Covering the grout line with tape, making grout removal messy.
Remove perimeter grout completely
Scrape or grind out all the grout surrounding the target tile down to the substrate using a grout rake or rotary tool. Take your time along the joints so that no hardened grout bridges connect the target tile to its neighbors.
- • Clear, empty channels on all four sides of the target tile with substrate visible in the gap.
- • Zero remaining grout bridging contact between the target and surrounding tiles.
- • Stopping after only removing the top millimeter of grout instead of clearing to the substrate.
- • Letting the rotary tool kick sideways and scuff neighboring tile glazes.
Drill center relief holes
Mark an 'X' across the center of the target tile. Drill 4 to 6 closely spaced holes through the tile body inside the center of the 'X' using a carbide-tipped masonry or glass drill bit at medium speed.
- • A cluster of distinct drill holes punched through the center zone of the target tile.
- • Perimeter edges of the tile remain unbroken while the core is perforated.
- • Drilling too close to the perimeter edges, which risks cracking the neighboring tiles.
- • Using excessive drill speed, which overheats and ruins the carbide tip.
Break and extract the tile center
Position the cold chisel tip into one of the central drill holes at a 60-degree angle. Strike gently with the hammer to crack out the center section between the holes, then lift away the loose center chunks.
- • An open void in the center of the tile exposing the underlying adhesive/backer board.
- • Perimeter border segments of the tile left standing around an empty center.
- • Hitting the chisel vertically straight down, which can punch a hole through the subfloor or backer board.
- • Striking with excessive force instead of light, controlled taps.
Chip remaining edges inward
Place the chisel edge against the remaining tile perimeter segments, angling the tool toward the center void. Tap lightly to pop remaining tile pieces inward toward the open center rather than outward toward neighboring tiles.
- • All ceramic tile material completely removed from the targeted square.
- • Neighboring tiles remain completely unchipped and firmly seated.
- • Chiseling outward toward the neighbor tiles, which forces impact pressure against their unprotected edges.
Scrape and clear old adhesive down to substrate
Hold the chisel at a low 15- to 30-degree angle and tap it to chip away old thin-set mortar or mastic from the substrate. Vacuum the entire cavity thoroughly until the base is flat, smooth, and clean for the replacement tile.
- • A flat, recessed pocket down to the level of the original backer board or concrete.
- • Cavity entirely clear of ridges, old thin-set humps, and dust.
- • Leaving high ridges of old thin-set, which will make the replacement tile sit higher than surrounding tiles.
- • Gouging deeply into wooden subfloor or drywall paper.
Credit: inspired by an original tutorial by WINNI — watch the original on YouTube.
Don’t have everything?
- No Grout rake or rotary tool? Utility knife with a carbide scoring blade or an old flathead screwdriver wrapped in tape.
- No Cold chisel? Stiff 1-inch putty knife or an old beveled wood chisel you don't mind dulling.