How to Build a Ground-Level Backyard Deck
Construct a freestanding ground-level deck by leveling a gravel base, arranging concrete pier blocks, framing treated joists, and fastening decking boards.
This guide shows how to build a ground-level backyard deck in 12-16 hours. Start with clear ground and lay gravel foundation; follow the safety notes and step checkpoints below.
Watch: How to Build a Deck Step by Step
Square the layout, set the footings and posts, frame the joists, then lay the deck boards. · 3:39 minute walkthrough. The full written steps are below.
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- Read the tools, materials, safety notes, and steps below for free.
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🧰 Required Tools & Equipment
- ✓ Cordless drill and impact driver
- ✓ Circular saw or miter saw
- ✓ 4-foot spirit level
- ✓ Speed square
- ✓ Tape measure
- ✓ Shovel and metal rake
📦 Materials & Supplies
- ✓ Pressure-treated 2x6 lumber (framing)
- ✓ 5/4x6 deck boards
- ✓ Concrete deck blocks (floating pier blocks)
- ✓ Landscape fabric and drainage gravel
- ✓ 3-inch exterior structural screws
- ✓ 2-1/2-inch exterior deck screws
⚠️ Safety Checkpoints & Warnings
- • Wear an N95 dust mask and safety glasses when cutting pressure-treated lumber to prevent inhaling chemical preservatives.
- • Wear heavy-duty work gloves to avoid deep splinters and skin irritation from treated wood.
- • Lift framing members and concrete deck blocks using knees and legs, keeping loads close to your torso.
📋 Step-by-Step Guide (6 Steps)
Clear Ground and Lay Gravel Foundation
Mark the deck perimeter with stakes and dig out topsoil to a depth of 3 to 4 inches. Lay commercial landscape fabric across the excavation and spread 2 inches of crushed gravel evenly. Tamp the gravel down firmly until the surface is flat and compacted.
- • A flat, compacted gravel bed with no exposed grass or weeds
- • Landscape fabric completely covered by crushed stone across the marked footprint
- • Leaving organic topsoil or grass beneath the deck which promotes wood rot
- • Failing to tamp gravel flat, resulting in shifting support blocks later
Set and Level Concrete Pier Blocks
Arrange concrete deck blocks in rows spaced no more than 4 to 5 feet apart in both directions. Place a long straight 2x6 board topped with a 4-foot spirit level across the blocks in multiple directions. Add or remove gravel under individual blocks until every block sits completely level with the others.
- • Concrete blocks aligned in straight parallel rows sitting firmly in the gravel
- • Bubble centered on the 4-foot level when resting across any two adjacent block slots
- • Placing blocks on loose dirt instead of directly on compacted gravel
- • Leveling only individual blocks rather than checking the relative height across the whole grid
Assemble Outer Frame and Square the Perimeter
Cut pressure-treated 2x6 lumber to your deck dimensions and set the boards into the perimeter block slots. Fasten the corners together using three 3-inch exterior structural screws per joint. Measure diagonally corner-to-corner in an 'X' pattern and adjust until both diagonal measurements match exactly.
- • A rectangular outer wooden box resting securely inside the concrete block slots
- • Both diagonal tape measurements match down to the 1/8 inch
- • Skipping diagonal measurements and ending up with a skewed, non-rectangular frame
- • Using interior drywall screws that will corrode and snap under pressure
Install Internal Joists at 16-Inch Spacing
Mark joist locations along the rim joists every 16 inches on center using a tape measure and speed square. Cut 2x6 joists to length and drop them into the frame, aligning them on edge with your layout marks. Secure each joist end into the rim joist using 3-inch structural screws or approved hurricane framing ties.
- • Parallel joists running across the frame spaced uniformly at 16 inches on-center
- • Tops of all internal joists sitting completely flush with the top edge of the outer rim frame
- • Installing joists with the crown (natural bow) facing down, causing a bouncy, sagging floor
- • Spacing joists too far apart (e.g., 24 inches), leading to deck board deflection
Fasten Decking Boards with Consistent Gaps
Lay the first deck board flush with the outer edge of the frame and fasten it with two 2-1/2-inch deck screws at every joist intersection. Lay subsequent boards across the joists, placing 1/8 to 1/4-inch spacers between each board for water drainage and expansion. Drive screws slightly below the surface without over-sinking or splitting the wood.
- • Straight rows of decking running perpendicular to the joists with uniform spacing gaps
- • Screw heads driven uniformly flush or 1/16-inch below the board surface in neat straight lines
- • Butting wet, pressure-treated decking tightly together without accounting for swelling/shrinking
- • Fastening too close to board ends without pre-drilling, causing split lumber
Trim Deck Board Overhangs to Final Line
Let deck board ends run wild past the outer frame during installation rather than pre-cutting each one. Snap a chalk line along the outer edge of the frame to establish a continuous straight cut line. Set circular saw blade depth just past the deck board thickness and cut all excess board ends off in one continuous pass.
- • A razor-straight, uniform deck edge running perfectly parallel to the rim joist
- • Clean, splinter-free cross-cuts flush with or with an exact consistent overhang
- • Setting the saw blade too deep, cutting into the structural frame underneath
- • Freehand cutting without a snapped guide line, yielding a crooked or jagged edge
Don’t have everything?
- No Deck board spacers? 16d nails or 1/4-inch scrap plywood strips
- No Miter saw? Circular saw guided by a speed square
- No Concrete deck blocks? Leveled precast concrete patio paver pads with composite shims