How to Install Roof Shingles
Learn to lay drip edge, roll underlayment, align starter strips, and fasten architectural asphalt shingles with exact nail placement and staggered course offsets.
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🧰 Required Tools & Equipment
- ✓ Roofing nail gun or roofing hammer
- ✓ Chalk line reel
- ✓ Utility knife with hook blades
- ✓ Tape measure
- ✓ Tin snips
- ✓ Pneumatic air compressor and hose
📦 Materials & Supplies
- ✓ Architectural asphalt shingles
- ✓ Starter strip shingles
- ✓ Synthetic roofing underlayment
- ✓ 1-1/4 inch galvanized roofing nails
- ✓ Aluminum drip edge flashing
- ✓ Ridge cap shingles
⚠️ Safety Checkpoints & Warnings
- • Wear an OSHA-compliant fall protection harness anchored securely into a solid roof rafter.
- • Verify the roof deck is dry and free of soft, rotted plywood before walking across sheets.
- • Wear soft-rubber work boots to maximize traction and avoid scuffing shingle granules.
📋 Step-by-Step Guide (6 Steps)
Install Drip Edge and Synthetic Underlayment
Nail metal drip edge directly to the roof deck along the eaves, spacing nails every 12 inches. Roll out synthetic underlayment horizontally across the deck from the bottom up, overlapping upper layers by at least 4 inches and end joints by 6 inches. Fasten the underlayment with plastic cap nails every 8 to 12 inches, then install drip edge along the rake edges over the underlayment.
- • Underlayment lies completely flat without wrinkles or bubbles.
- • Drip edge overlaps 2 inches at seams with eave drip edge under underlayment and rake drip edge over it.
- • Placing rake drip edge under the underlayment instead of over it, allowing wind-driven rain under the edge.
- • Leaving wrinkles in the underlayment that telegraph through the asphalt shingles.
Snap Chalk Reference Grid
Measure up from the eave drip edge to mark the exposure height (typically 5 inches to 5-5/8 inches depending on shingle manufacturer). Snap horizontal chalk lines every 4 to 5 courses across the entire roof surface. Snap vertical chalk lines every 6 inches or full shingle width to keep perpendicular joints square across the deck.
- • Crisp horizontal blue chalk lines running parallel to the eave across the full roof plane.
- • Vertical chalk marks squared to the roof rake.
- • Measuring off an uneven roof ridge instead of the straight eave line.
- • Snapping chalk lines too far apart, causing shingles to slowly drift out of level.
Fasten Starter Strip Shingles
Align starter strips along the bottom eave with the sealant strip facing outward and downward closest to the gutter. Overhang the starter strip 1/4 to 3/4 inch past the metal drip edge along both the eaves and rakes. Drive four galvanized roofing nails per strip, keeping them 2 to 3 inches above the lower edge and 1 inch in from each side.
- • Continuous asphalt strip running the full perimeter with a uniform 1/2-inch overhang past the drip edge.
- • Nails driven flush through the manufacturer nail zone without tearing the mat.
- • Installing the starter strip upside down with the tar adhesive line at the top instead of the bottom edge.
- • Aligning starter strip end joints directly beneath the cutout slots of the first course.
Install and Stagger Shingle Courses
Lay the first full shingle directly over the starter strip, flush with the bottom and rake overhangs. Drive four nails (six in high-wind zones) horizontally along the designated manufacturer nail line, 1 inch from each end and spaced evenly. Offset each subsequent course by cutting 6 inches (or following the manufacturer stepped offset pattern) off the first shingle of each row before laying full shingles across.
- • Horizontal shingle bottom edges align precisely with horizontal chalk lines.
- • Vertical seams between courses maintain at least a 4-to-6-inch offset.
- • Nail heads sit flush with shingle surface without penetrating through or standing proud.
- • High nailing above the designated fastener line, which misses the underlying laminate layer and voids wind warranties.
- • Racking shingles straight up in a vertical column instead of using a stepped diagonal pattern.
Trim Rakes and Top Courses
Continue courses up the roof slope until reaching the peak, maintaining consistent exposure. Snap a vertical chalk line along rake edges 1/2 inch past the drip edge and trim excess shingle overhang cleanly using a hook blade. At the ridge, fold the top course over the peak by at least 4 inches (or trim flush if installing an over-the-ridge vent).
- • Rake edge shingles cut in a clean, perfectly straight line overhang.
- • Top row fastened securely across both sides of the ridge peak.
- • Trimming rake shingles flush to the metal, allowing water to wick beneath the edge.
- • Using a straight blade that cuts into the underlayment underneath rather than a curved hook blade.
Cap the Ridge
Center individual ridge cap shingles over the peak, beginning at the end opposite prevailing winds. Fasten each cap piece with two 1-3/4 inch roofing nails driven 1 inch from each side and 5-1/2 inches back from the exposed butt edge. Overlap each consecutive cap shingle by 5 inches, and seal the exposed nail heads on the final cap piece with UV-resistant asphalt roofing cement.
- • Ridge caps centered evenly on both sides of the roof peak.
- • Final ridge piece nailed and fastener heads fully encapsulated in roofing sealant.
- • Using standard 1-1/4 inch nails for ridge caps, which are too short to penetrate multiple layers and roof decking.
- • Laying caps facing into the prevailing wind, making them prone to blow-off.
Credit: inspired by an original tutorial by CCX Roofing — watch the original on YouTube.
Don’t have everything?
- No Roofing nail gun? Roofing hammer with magnetic face and gauge
- No Pre-cut starter strip shingles? 3-tab shingles with the bottom 5-inch tabs cut off
- No Pre-cut ridge cap shingles? Standard 3-tab shingles cut into thirds with top corners trimmed at 45 degrees