How to Install Lifeproof Vinyl Plank Flooring
Learn how to prep subfloors, set expansion gaps, cut planks, and lock Lifeproof vinyl flooring together for a clean, waterproof finish.
This guide shows how to install lifeproof vinyl plank flooring in 1 to 2 days. Start with subfloor prep and acclimation; follow the safety notes and step checkpoints below.
Visual step map
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Materials and cost planner
Select the items you plan to buy, adjust any estimated price, and calculate the selected total.
Editable rough U.S. retail estimates. Estimated all listed: $167.00. Prices are planning estimates, not quotes — tax, store, brand, size and quantity will change them.
Time and finish planner
Estimate active working time from the number of steps in this guide.
Paint coverage calculator
Estimate how much paint to buy from the area you plan to cover, the number of coats and the coverage shown on the can.
Use the coverage printed on the actual product label. Rough, porous or heavily patched surfaces can use much more paint.
- Read the tools, materials, safety notes, and steps below for free.
- Tap See 20-second demo if you want to understand it first.
- Tap Start Camera Coach when you want hands-free help, or Voice-only if you do not want to use the camera.
- Allow camera and microphone. Point your phone at the work; the coach watches your progress and tells you the next step.
🧰 Required Tools & Equipment
- ✓ Tapping block
- ✓ Rubber mallet
- ✓ Pull bar
- ✓ Utility knife with fresh blades
- ✓ Tape measure
- ✓ Speed square
- ✓ Spacers (1/4-inch)
📦 Materials & Supplies
- ✓ Lifeproof vinyl plank flooring boxes
- ✓ Door jamb transition strips
- ✓ Silicone sealant (for wet areas)
⚠️ Safety Checkpoints & Warnings
- • Always cut planks pointing the blade away from your body on a stable surface.
- • Wear knee pads and safety glasses when scoring, snapping, or tapping planks.
- • Keep work area cleared of loose debris to prevent tripping hazards.
📋 Step-by-Step Guide (5 Steps)
Subfloor Prep and Acclimation
Sweep and vacuum the subfloor thoroughly so not a single grain of grit remains. Check levelness using a 6-foot level; grind down high spots or patch low spots deeper than 3/16 inch over 10 feet. Bring boxed planks into the room at least 48 hours prior to equalize room temperature.
- • Bare subfloor is completely clean and free of nails, staples, or debris
- • Level sits flush across the floor with gaps under 3/16 inch
- • Leaving small drywall debris or staple heads protruding from subfloor
- • Skipping flat-plane checks before laying planks
Set First Row and Expansion Spacers
Place 1/4-inch spacers against the starting wall along the length and ends. Orient the first plank with the tongue side facing the wall and groove facing out toward the room. Join the short ends of the first row by angling the tongue into the groove and dropping it flat, tapping lightly with a block.
- • A continuous 1/4-inch gap maintained by plastic spacers along the starting wall
- • First row laid dead straight end-to-end
- • Placing planks flush against the drywall without perimeter expansion gaps
- • Bashing the delicate click-lock tongue directly with a mallet
Measure, Score, and Snap End Planks
Measure the remaining space at the end of the row, accounting for the 1/4-inch wall spacer. Mark the cut line on the face of the plank with a speed square and score firmly 2-3 times with a utility knife. Snap the plank downward cleanly over your knee or a table edge, then slice through the attached underlayment backing.
- • Clean, 90-degree snap on the cut edge
- • Cut piece fits into end of row leaving exact 1/4-inch gap at the wall
- • Scoring too lightly, causing the vinyl core to tear jaggedly
- • Forgetting to flip the plank measurement correctly before cutting
Lock Subsequent Rows with Staggered Joints
Start the second row ensuring end joints are offset from the previous row by at least 8 inches. Insert the long-edge tongue into the first row's groove at a 30-degree angle, slide it snug, and pivot down flat. Use a tapping block along the outside long groove to fully seat the locking mechanism until the seam disappears completely.
- • End joints staggered by a minimum of 8 inches across adjacent rows
- • Zero visible seam lines or elevation differences between plank faces
- • Creating an 'H-pattern' or 'stair-step' alignment under 8 inches apart
- • Tapping directly on the vinyl lock without a protective block
Lock Tight Rows Using the Pull Bar
When locking the final plank of a row or the entire final wall row, insert the flat hook of the pull bar over the plank edge. Strike the upward-facing anvil of the pull bar with your rubber mallet toward yourself to pull the joint tight. Check that perimeter spacers remain in place during tensioning.
- • Tight, seamless joint at wall-adjacent ends where a tapping block cannot fit
- • Spacers still firmly held between final plank and wall
- • Striking the pull bar excessively hard, bending the metal or crushing the wall drywall
- • Pulling planks out of alignment without holding the preceding board
Credit: inspired by an original tutorial by Bent's Woodworking — watch the original on YouTube.
Don’t have everything?
- No Tapping block? Scrap piece of vinyl plank with intact locking tongue
- No Pull bar? Heavy-duty flat pry bar padded with painter's tape