How to Install Drip Edge on a Roof
Learn how to properly measure, cut, overlap, and fasten aluminum or steel drip edge along eaves and rakes to protect roof decking and fascia from water damage.
This guide shows how to install drip edge on a roof in 1 to 3 hours. Start with install eave drip edge directly on sheathing; follow the safety notes and step checkpoints below.
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🧰 Required Tools & Equipment
- ✓ Tin snips or aviation shears
- ✓ Hammer or roofing nail gun
- ✓ Tape measure
- ✓ Chalk line
- ✓ Pencil
📦 Materials & Supplies
- ✓ Metal drip edge flashing (T-style or L-style)
- ✓ 1-1/4 inch galvanized roofing nails
- ✓ Roofing underlayment / ice and water shield
⚠️ Safety Checkpoints & Warnings
- • Ensure ladder is level, tied off, and extends 3 feet past the roof edge.
- • Wear heavy cut-resistant gloves when handling sharp sheet metal flashing.
- • Do not lean excessively over the roof edge; relocate the ladder frequently.
📋 Step-by-Step Guide (6 Steps)
Install Eave Drip Edge Directly on Sheathing
Place the drip edge along the bottom eave directly against bare plywood decking before underlayment is laid. Align the flange flat on the deck with the vertical drop hanging down past the fascia board. Leave a 1/4 to 3/8 inch gap between the drop leg and the fascia board for water clearance.
- • Metal flashing sits flat against bare wooden decking along the lower roof line
- • A small uniform air gap is visible between the vertical metal leg and the fascia board
- • Placing eave drip edge on top of felt/underlayment instead of directly onto the plywood deck
- • Pressing the vertical leg tight against the fascia, trapping runoff water
Fasten the First Eave Length
Drive 1-1/4 inch galvanized roofing nails into the top horizontal flange every 12 to 16 inches. Stagger the nails slightly toward the center and top of the flange to avoid splitting the deck edge. Drive nails flush without crushing or denting the metal profile.
- • Nails seated flush every 12 to 16 inches along the top flange
- • Metal strip lays flat without oil-canning or waves
- • Nailing through the bottom edge too close to the fascia
- • Over-driving nails and denting the drip edge
Overlap Eave Seams
When joining two lengths along the eave, overlap the joints by 2 to 3 inches. Cut a 1-inch notch in the bottom kick-out hem of the overlapping piece so the two metal sections slide tightly inside one another without buckling. Nail through both layers at the overlap seam.
- • Seamless 2 to 3 inch overlap with flush seams
- • No gaps or flared metal wings protruding at the joint
- • Butting edges end-to-end without overlap
- • Failing to snip the bottom hem, causing the joint to flare open
Form Outside Eave Corners
Extend the eave drip edge 1 inch past the outside roof corner. Use tin snips to cut through the top horizontal flange and the downward drop down to the bend, then fold the 1-inch tab around the rake corner. This provides continuous water shedding around the edge.
- • A neat 90-degree metal wrap around the outer corner of the fascia
- • Single nail securing the wrapped tab flat to the rake decking edge
- • Cutting drip edge perfectly flush with the corner, leaving bare wood exposed at the turn
- • Cracking the metal by bending back and forth repeatedly
Install Rake Drip Edge Over Underlayment
Roll out roof underlayment or ice and water shield over the eave drip edge. Next, install rake drip edge running up the gable sloped sides ON TOP of the underlayment. Fasten every 12 to 16 inches, working from the bottom eave upward toward the roof ridge.
- • Underlayment is visible underneath the metal flange along the gable rake
- • Rake drip edge overlaps the previously installed eave drip edge corner tab
- • Putting rake drip edge underneath underlayment, allowing wind-driven rain under the edge
- • Working from ridge down to eave, resulting in reverse laps
Cap the Peak Ridge Joint
Run the rake drip edge from both sides to meet at the roof peak. Cut one side flush with the peak angle, and let the opposite side run 1 to 2 inches past. Slit the horizontal flange of the overlapping piece, fold it over the ridge cap, and secure with a nail on each side.
- • Clean, symmetrical peak cap overlapping the roof ridge
- • Both rake sides securely tied together at the top apex
- • Leaving an open gap at the very peak of the roof
- • Cutting both sides flush with no overlapping peak cover
Credit: inspired by an original tutorial by Dylan Hodgson — watch the original on YouTube.
Don’t have everything?
- No Roofing nail gun? Smooth-faced standard claw hammer
- No Aviation shears? Heavy-duty sheet metal hand snips