How to Replace an Electric Dryer Heating Element
Diagnose and replace a burned-out electric dryer heating element and thermal fuse using basic hand tools and a digital multimeter.
This guide shows how to replace an electric dryer heating element in 45-60 minutes. Start with disconnect power and venting; follow the safety notes and step checkpoints below.
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- Read the tools, materials, safety notes, and steps below for free.
- Tap See 20-second demo if you want to understand it first.
- Tap Start Camera Coach when you want hands-free help, or Voice-only if you do not want to use the camera.
- Allow camera and microphone. Point your phone at the work; the coach watches your progress and tells you the next step.
🧰 Required Tools & Equipment
- ✓ Digital multimeter
- ✓ 1/4-inch nut driver
- ✓ 5/16-inch nut driver
- ✓ Needle-nose pliers
- ✓ Work gloves
📦 Materials & Supplies
- ✓ Replacement heating element assembly
- ✓ Replacement thermal fuse / high-limit thermostat kit
⚠️ Safety Checkpoints & Warnings
- • Ensure the 240V power cord is completely unplugged from the wall receptacle before touching any tool to the dryer chassis.
- • Verify the sheet metal edges are handled with gloves to prevent severe cuts.
- • Do not bypass or short-circuit any thermal fuses or high-limit thermostats permanently.
📋 Step-by-Step Guide (7 Steps)
Disconnect Power and Venting
Pull the dryer away from the wall to access the rear. Firmly grip the thick 240V power plug and pull it out of the wall outlet. Loosen the clamp on the flexible exhaust duct and slide the duct off the exhaust outlet.
- • Heavy 240V plug resting visibly on the floor away from the outlet.
- • Exhaust duct detached and pulled clear of the rear metal collar.
- • Relying on the breaker switch alone without physically unplugging the unit.
- • Yanking the cord by the wire rather than pulling the molded plug body.
Remove the Rear Access Panel
Use a 1/4-inch or 5/16-inch nut driver to remove the perimeter screws securing the rear metal panel. Set the screws aside in a magnetic tray. Lift the panel up and away from the chassis to expose the heater housing and wiring.
- • Rear sheet metal panel removed and leaning safely against a wall.
- • Heater duct, blower housing, and wire harnesses clearly visible.
- • Leaving one center screw engaged and bending the sheet metal.
- • Letting the panel slide down abruptly onto hands or floor.
Disconnect and Test Element for Continuity
Locate the vertical metal heater housing on the right side. Using needle-nose pliers, grip the spade terminals of the two main heater wires and pull them straight off the heater terminals. Set the multimeter to the lowest ohms setting or continuity mode and touch the probes to the two heater terminals.
- • Two main heater wires disconnected and hanging free.
- • Multimeter probes firmly contacting the bare metal heater element terminals.
- • Pulling the wire instead of gripping the metal spade connector, causing wire fraying.
- • Testing resistance while the wires are still attached to the circuit.
Remove the Faulty Heater Assembly
Disconnect the wire leads from the attached high-limit thermostat on the heater housing. Remove the mounting screws securing the metal heater duct to the dryer frame. Slide the housing downward and outward to free it from the upper air intake duct.
- • Entire heater canister removed from the dryer cavity.
- • Upper duct opening clear and undamaged.
- • Forgetting to unplug the thermal limiter wires before pulling the housing.
- • Forcing the housing out without clearing the mounting alignment tabs.
Install the New Heating Element and Thermostats
Transfer or replace the high-limit thermostat and thermal cut-off onto the new heater casing using the provided screws. Slide the new heating element assembly up into the intake duct and secure the mounting screws firmly to the frame.
- • New element housing seated squarely in the upper duct interface.
- • All mounting screws tightened flush without stripping.
- • Misaligning the top flange of the heater duct, causing hot air leakage.
- • Over-tightening sheet metal screws until they strip the pre-drilled holes.
Reconnect Wiring and Reassemble Panels
Firmly push all spade terminals back onto their corresponding heater and thermostat tabs until fully seated. Vacuum any accumulated lint from the bottom cavity. Reinstall the rear access panel and secure all perimeter screws.
- • Every spade connector fully bottomed out on its terminal with no exposed metal showing.
- • Rear panel flush against the frame with all screws installed.
- • Leaving a spade connector loose, which causes localized overheating and melting.
- • Pinching an internal wire between the rear panel and the frame.
Reattach Duct, Plug In, and Test
Reattach the flexible exhaust vent to the dryer outlet collar and tighten the clamp. Plug the 240V power cord back into the wall outlet. Turn the dryer on a timed high-heat cycle for 60 seconds, then open the door to feel for radiant heat inside the drum.
- • Exhaust vent clamp tightened securely with no air leaks.
- • Dryer drum spinning smoothly upon starting cycle.
- • Kinking the exhaust duct when pushing the dryer back into place.
- • Testing on an 'Air Fluff' or no-heat cycle setting by mistake.
Credit: inspired by an original tutorial by jeffostroff — watch the original on YouTube.
Don’t have everything?
- No Nut drivers? Socket wrench with 1/4-inch and 5/16-inch sockets
- No Needle-nose pliers? Standard slip-joint pliers